for the vegetarians
Claudia Roden is a hero of mine. A genius food writer, she wipes the floor with so many of the so-called “Celeb Chefs.”
Claudia has never run an overdesigned, overpriced restaurant; she has, instead, travelled, eating food, talking to the people who cook it (rarely referred to, in their own culture, as chefs),and to the people who eat it; chronicling the cultures, histories and social situations that have resulted in the various cuisines she explores.
Her most famous book is “The Book of Jewish Food,” which doesn’t actually sit in my kitchen. It’s an unbelievable tome about the food and culture of the Diaspora in the near, middle and far east, as well as in North South East and Western Europe and the Americas - part History, part Sociology, part Poetic treatise on flavour and the aesthetics of real life food - and I can highly recommend it.
Another book of hers (one of several) which I really highly recommend is “Arabesque,” her journey through the near East (Morocco, Lebanon, Syria etc.)
From that book, comes the Carrot Recipe I promised the Veggies some time ago.
This one is, almost inexplicably, delicious. It’s almost too simple - a handful of ingredients, the largest of which is a huge bunch of earthy, Rooty carrots; a few basic steps, a process that’s fragrant, fast and that builds anticipation for a product that’s tasty, exotic and enjoyable.
I’ve played around a bit with the recipe as Claudia gives it, but what follows, I promise, will give you a carrot salad which will never be ignored, which has always gained me positive comments, and which rarely gives me much in the way of leftovers.
When I do it, it’s part of a larger salad or Tapas-style spread, but I’ve occasionally (on the rare occasions when there’s any leftovers) eaten it as a main, accompanied by a cinnamon and pepper (or, if you’re being really poncey, pomegranate seed) couscous, which would be a possible Vegetarian serving method.
Whatever, it’s proper Moroccan Street Food, and proof that one really doesn’t have to have meat to make a really tasty and fulfilling meal (try it, for example, rolled up in a flatbread with yoghurt, coriander and possibly cucumber. Or - and I’ve never tried this, so let me know if you do - add a good slop of vegetable stock, puree and reheat it to make a sort of Moroccan Carrot Soup.
Anyways, here’s Jazar Bil Kamoun Wal Toum (aka Moroccan Carrot Salad with Cumin & Garlic)
First, put some cumin seeds in a pan, and put it over a low(ish) heat. I also add a little Cumin, if I have some, but it’s not the official recipe, so your call; the point is, effectively, to have about 1 - 2tsp of the seeds.
Toast the spices til they’re just colouring and releasing their amazing scent into your gracious sunlight-filled kitchen. Be careful - they have the ability to turn from “Lightly toasted and releasing their amazing scent” to “Blacker than the hob of hell and acridly stinkin out the joint.” You could always use the pre done powdered stuff, but really, the flavour is incomparable.
And let’s be honest - if you can’t even toast a few spices, maybe we should just order in. Kidding, I’ve burnt em many times. Normally when the window cleaner’s mate is scrubbing away at me French Windows…
Anyways, next, tip em into a mortar (or is it a pestle?) Whichever, tip em in, pick up the other bit, and, imagining they’re a hapless PA and you’re Naomi Campbell, smash the shit out of them. Go on: Pulverise the little f!ckers. Grind em to powder. Now (if you’re Naomi) call your lawyer; otherwise, on to the next stage…
Peel and cut up a bunch of carrots. Claudia’s recipe says about 600g, which, it says, will feed 4 - 6 people, but, again, who knows whether that’s 4-6 hungry, main-course consuming Vegetarians, or half a dozen Carnivores looking for a side dish. My suggestion, as always, is, don’t wait til the busload of VA (vegetarians Anonymous) is pulling up outside the door; make the recipe before they arrive - as a dry run. Although, since this is a salad, you could make it the night before, and that way you’ll see just how much you have left.
Right. So… Peel. Cut in half, the half, then half til you have a stack of batons. Basically, fat matchsticks. If we’re not getting that, again, Dominos do a lovely vege Pizza…
While the carrots boil and the oil heats up, peel and very finely dice about four garlic cloves. Again, not Four HUGE FAT cloves, four average ones. And if you don’t know what’s average, and what’s HUGE and FAT, pop round when the window cleaner’s mate is scrubbing away at my French Windows…
Boil the carrots for 10-15 minutes, then drain.
Pour some oil - about 4 tbs of your best Extra Virgin Olive Oil - into a large pot. Heat it over a medium heat, and then add the garlic the carrots, some salt and pepper, and the powdered spices, scraping the Shivering Personal Assistant, I mean Mortar. Or Pestle. Whatever. So long as you get all the spice out and into the pot.
Sauté. On a medium-high heat, turning the carrots over, until the garlic just begins to colour.
Sprinkle with Lemon Juice (and - my own, unauthentic, addition - sesame seeds), and serve cold.
Unbelievably good, I promise.